Head Sommelier: Dongyeon Ko

What led you to choose the profession of a sommelier?

When I was in my second year of high school, I had a close friend who worked as a bartender. Talking with him sparked a vague desire to work with alcohol in some way. That initial interest led me to gradually learn more about the sommelier profession, and I was quickly captivated. I started reading books on the subject and researching career prospects. I especially remember reading The Wine Bible over and over from beginning to end.When it came time to apply for college, my cousin helped persuade my parents, and I enrolled in a sommelier studies program. Looking back, it was a natural yet deeply rooted beginning.

How did you study wine? It seems like there’s more to it than just tasting.

When I first encountered wine in college, I thought tasting was everything. But over time, I realized that wine is 90% knowledge. To have deep, meaningful conversations about wine, a structured understanding is essential.No matter what wine you taste, the ability to remember and interpret it comes from a foundation of knowledge. That’s why I continue to study even now. Being a sommelier is a lifelong journey of learning. New vintages emerge, and palates shift with the times. Staying oriented within that vast sea of information requires constant exploration. But there's also a strong sense of reward and fulfillment that makes this job so appealing.

What experience did you gain before joining Solbam?

During college, I balanced academics with real-world experience. I worked at a wine bar in Jeongja-dong, Bundang, which specialized in Chinese cuisine. From serving to making cocktails, I did a bit of everything. That hands-on work gave me real clarity about my career path.After completing military service, I joined Jungsik. A year and a half later, I became a junior sommelier and stayed for five years. It was an incredibly stimulating and educational time. The senior team constantly asked questions, which pushed me to study and grow. Watching them challenge themselves and evolve helped me set a personal standard of continuous learning.

You’re one of the founding members of Solbam. How did that relationship begin?

After five years at my previous workplace, I felt the need for a new challenge. I sensed I was becoming stagnant, and changing environments seemed like the only way forward.About a month after I left, I was introduced to Chef Eom Tae-jun and went in for an interview. I still vividly remember that moment. His eyes, his words, the three years he had spent preparing for Solbam, and his ten-year vision—all of it felt so sincere.It wasn’t just a job offer; it was an invitation to grow together as a team. I was especially struck by the idea that “every team member is a protagonist in Solbam’s end credits.” I felt certain I could experience meaningful growth in such a space.

The early days of Solbam must have looked quite different from now.

It really felt like building something from scratch. There was a time when it was just the chef, the manager, and me—holding meetings and doing administrative work in cafes. We even visited the construction site ourselves. After the soft opening, the service team consisted of only three people.From those early days when we had fewer than ten reservations to now, as a Michelin-starred restaurant, I remember every step vividly.At Solbam, service isn't just about running the table. It's about the tone of our interactions, the nuance of our responses, the temperature of our service—warm yet precise. Over time, working in sync with the team, we’ve shaped what makes Solbam unique. And as we continue to grow, that collaborative journey remains ongoing.

What’s your priority when curating the wine list at Solbam?

The wine list is the face of a sommelier. I pay close attention to every detail—even typos.But more importantly, the list shouldn’t reflect my personal preferences. It must harmonize with Solbam’s cuisine. No matter what the guest chooses, the wine should pair gracefully with the food.

Can you share a particularly memorable pairing?

One of the most striking pairings was oysters with Sauternes. It was a bold move to match a dessert wine with the first course, and there was a lot of concern internally.But I believed the salty, mineral, slightly sweet, and oceanic flavors of the oyster could be balanced by the sweetness and acidity of Sauternes.The dish also included apple and dill juice with croutons, so the fresh acidity and youthful vibrancy of the Sauternes added a beautiful lingering finish. I still remember the guests who smiled and said, “I’ve never had oysters like this before.”

Another recent pairing was with our Andong-style braised chicken. We matched it with a Nebbiolo-based red wine. Typically, poultry is paired with white wine or lighter reds like Pinot Noir or Gamay. But I wanted to take a different approach.This dish features young chicken braised in soy sauce, where the soy is aged to draw out depth and natural sweetness. I focused on that sweetness and the aged soy and concluded that the pronounced tannins of Nebbiolo could work well.Nebbiolo has a strong personality, so it’s not an easy wine to pair. But the interplay with the dish’s sweetness helped smooth out its texture.Another key point is the filling—minced button mushrooms. Inspired by how Barolo and the Piemonte region are famous for truffles, I wanted the mushroom’s aroma to sensorially tie into Nebbiolo’s terroir.By using a matured Nebbiolo, the wine naturally blended into the dish. We used Nebbiolo last season as well, but chose a different cuvée this time. Even with the same grape, a shift in detail reveals a completely new landscape, so we aim for subtle variations each season.

Your use of Korean liquors and cocktails is also impressive.

Yes, I think it’s essential to break away from preconceptions. We actively use Korean liquors in our pairings—like cocktails based on Andong soju or Korean apple wine.For instance, we created a cocktail inspired by “hidden mul-naengmyeon” (cold noodles in broth). It features Andong soju, water parsley oil, roasted brown rice syrup, and sage herb, served cold.The cocktail connects with the dish’s water parsley and is designed to link both visually and flavorfully.

In 2025, Solbam joined the Dom Pérignon Society.

That’s right. In spring 2025, Solbam was selected for the Dom Pérignon Society, a global community of chefs. More than just a brand partnership, it represents a shared philosophy of precision and creativity. Each year, 126 chefs and sommeliers from around the world come together to interpret each vintage emotionally and exchange inspiration.

We currently start our pairings with Dom Pérignon. Though it's a premium champagne, we chose it to create a truly memorable moment for our guests. We also offer P2 vintages as an option and even serve it by the glass—making it more approachable. Beginning a meal with such a remarkable champagne can create unforgettable experiences. On the surface, Dom Pérignon may seem bold and masculine, but once you taste it, it reveals a multi-layered, delicate beauty. To be honest, it always reminds me of Chef Eom—beneath his composed exterior is a deeply refined, intricate cuisine. (laughs)

You’ve achieved a lot, including winning the 2024 Korea Sommelier of the Year.

Consistency is everything in this profession. You must constantly ask how to turn everyday experiences into your own growth. A month before the competition, I stayed at the restaurant until 4 a.m. doing mental image training. For the six-minute blind tasting, I prepared a 4-minute-30-second script and broke down every movement and word second by second for repetition. Without that effort, I wouldn’t have achieved those results. This job merges “work” and “study” into one. But to do it right, you also need to separate the two and give each your full attention. You can’t grow by just clocking in. Even now, I strive to balance both—working and learning.

As Head Sommelier, what kind of team culture do you hope to create?

A head sommelier’s role is not to shine alone. Everyone on our team should respond to guests as equals and professionals, each with their own intuition and character. That’s why I often put pressure on the team—to encourage independent judgment and accountability. Ultimately, I want to build a foundation so that 15 or 20 years from now, even without me, the team will maintain its core philosophy and attitude.

What’s the greatest strength of Solbam’s teamwork?

Mutual respect. That’s the essence.Each member has a clear role but moves fluidly across boundaries. That flexibility is key to our teamwork.We don’t call each other “colleagues”—we truly are a team. Everyone does their part, but when someone struggles, help is given without hesitation.And when someone is absent, the gap is naturally filled.

Most importantly, our emotional wavelengths are in sync.We can sense each other’s fatigue or tension quickly, communicating not only with words but also through eye contact and atmosphere.This kind of trust only comes from spending time and effort together over the long term.

What efforts are you making to help the team grow together?

I believe the team should operate like a living organism.Personal growth means nothing if the team doesn’t grow with you. So I work to ensure every member has a sense of ownership and initiative in their role.Even when curating the wine list, I don’t make all the decisions alone. I discuss and reflect on ideas with the team. Sometimes, a junior member suggests something that we add to the list.That kind of experience builds confidence and a sense of identity.

As a leader, what’s most important to you in team communication?

Honest feedback and emotional regulation.Knowing when to praise and when to be firm—and delivering it well—is crucial.A leader’s words are often received more through tone than intent, so I pay great attention to how I phrase things.Every piece of feedback must be rooted in growth.

I often tell my team, “It’s okay to be wrong, but never walk past something you don’t understand.”Making mistakes is fine, but learning from them and ensuring they don’t happen again—that’s true competence.

How would you describe the identity of Solbam’s sommelier team?

Our philosophy is not to create cookie-cutter sommeliers. We want individuals with unique personalities.I don’t stress mechanical service procedures.What matters is reading the guest’s rhythm, understanding their mood, and guiding the experience with empathy.Such intuition can’t develop in a rigid system. That’s why I let team members take the lead on the service floor.But that stage must be built on objectivity and expertise—so I’m strict about fundamentals: language, tone, service flow, glass handling… The basics must be the most detailed.

What do you hope for yourself as a leader moving forward?

I want to become a softer person—someone who listens more and waits patiently for others' opinions. While leadership sometimes requires cold judgment, I believe warmth ultimately brings the team together. I want my team to feel comfortable approaching me, even about difficult truths. The kind of leadership I aim for isn’t about perfection—it’s about growing together. That’s why I ask myself every day, “Did my words or actions today help someone grow?” I want to stack each day with no regrets.

To be a good leader, I must keep learning and evolving to set the right example. One day, I hope to become a Master Sommelier. For now, I continue walking slowly but steadily—because this still feels like just the beginning.